Now I’m sitting next to Jen on the plane ride to Houston, we’ve been trading stories for the last hour. Sounds like Caroline is doing really well, I can’t wait to see her at Christmas.
Sarah, Rich and I were musing over the name ‘Yosemite’ and how people might mispronounce it. Sarah’s favorite take is the title for this post.
Friday morning the three of us drove to Yosemite. The drive in the afternoon took much longer than we expected, nearly five hours from Berkeley. We checked in at the hostel and then drove to the park to catch the sunset. Sarah and Rich got some great pictures of Half Dome bathed in the gorgeous yellow light seen before the sun sets. We stopped at the park’s general store to grab several last minute additions to our daypacks for the big hike the next day (including the all-important moleskin), had pizza at the only restaurant in town, and then crashed back at the hostel since we had an early start the next day.
Up before sunrise, we drove into the park and admired the morning views. There weren’t many early risers, except we were passed by a bakery truck (which I vowed to catch up to, but we never did). We parked below Sentinel Rock, looked up at its top thousands of feet above us, grinned at each other, and then began our climb up the four and a half mile trail to Glacier Point. We had some great views that morning of the valley, with the sunlight falling on the valley side opposite us. It was nice and cool where we were, we didn’t really find the sun until we reached the top after three and a half hours.
Glacier Point is a commanding vista located across from Yosemite Falls and providing an unmatched view of Half Dome and some of the spectacular waterfalls in the valley behind it. We admired the vista, stopped in the gift shop for some ice cream, and then prepared for our 8.5 mile hike down to the falls behind Half Dome. While we were there we read some signs talking about the Glacier Hotel located at the Point which burned down in the 1960s. We also learned of the two dancing ladies who would literally dance on Overhanging Rock, a fall from which would literally take thousands of feet to hit the bottom. And we saw pictures of the Yosemite Firefall, a tradition that the Park ended in the 1970s where they would start a bonfire on Glacier Point every night and then at 9pm dump it over the side so that all in the valley could see the burning embers streaking down to the ground. It would have been great to see any of those today, but I understand why they don’t resurrect them.
The hike down to the falls was hot as we were now in the early afternoon. Now we were starting to get tired, and Sarah and I were finding our moleskin patches on our heels were not working as best as one would hope. We saw three falls, Illilouette, Nevada, and Vernal Falls, all of which were spectacular up close. My favorite waterfall is still Victoria Falls, but all of these three are now in my favorite top five waterfalls I’ve seen.
While we were near Emerald Pond above the misty falls of Vernal we saw many teenagers wading or swimming through it, ignoring the closed area signs. The granite banks are very slippery when wet, I can see how many people might twist a knee or ankle from a slip. It was amusing to watch one boy jump in after a stick, gasp as he realized how cold the water was, and then scramble back ashore. We climbed down some very, very steep stone stairs next to the falls along Misty Trail. We were amazed by the number of people going up that portion.
A few more stops and we were on our way to the bottom. At this point a few people jogged past us going down the trail, and I realized that I hadn’t run yet in Yosemite so I offered to go on ahead and bring the car back to Sarah and Rich. Jogging down wasn’t too bad, I just had to make sure to take it easy, not go too fast, and keep my knees bent to prevent any joint injuries. I made it to the bottom and hopped on a shuttle bus and waited for forty minutes as it meandered through the valley, as our stop was on the far side. As it turned out, the bus didn’t actually stop at our car; I had a nice half-mile jog along one of the paths through a meadow as I made my way towards Sentinel Rock and our car. I drove around and picked up Rich and Sarah, who had only been waiting for 20 minutes.
After grabbing some delicious sandwiches and drinks for dinner from the valley general store we set off to Glacier Point again, this time by car. We stopped near the Wawona Tunnel scenic view turnoff. From there you can look eastward up the valley and see El Capitan, Half Dome, and Sentinel Rock all at the same time. It would have been great just a few minutes earlier before the sun set, as the valley must have been beautifully illuminated for a postcard photo. We hopped back in the car and began the windy long road up to Glacier Point for a special event that we had learned of the night before.
We made it to the top and parked 15 minutes before moonrise, just as twilight ended. We settled down on the point with some other people, facing Half Dome and the darkened valley. We could see a few lights here and there, of people walking along trails. We even saw a light on the steep side of Half Dome, evidently that of a climber settling in for the night. The nearly full moon rose over the Sierra Nevada mountains amid a few cheers from the fifty or so people scattered across Glacier Point. The moon was quite stunning and bright, and wonderful. Sarah snapped picture after picture while Rich fiddled with one of the Park viewing telescopes mounted there. After he realized it was working and didn’t cost quarters to use, we spied on the moon and admired its craters and rays.
One time when I stepped up to the telescope to look again, I was puzzled to see a thin smear across the moon. My eye followed the smear to a black object racing towards the limb of the moon, and I recognized it as the silhouette of the tail and fuselage of a jet airliner! The smear was due to the engine exhaust, and it quickly faded. Neither Sarah nor Rich believed me until we saw the airliner’s navigation lights next to the moon moments later.
After spotting some satellites, we drove down to the moonlit Valley and stopped in a few places for Sarah to take some long exposures of El Capitan and a few other features. We learned Rich hated “They Might Be Giants”. And we finally got back to the hostel a half hour after midnight, stumbled into the showers, and collapsed on the bed.
Sunday morning we drove to San Francisco and spent a few hours driving through the Presidio and Golden Gate Park. It was nice, except that several weekend road closures in the Park made it a little frustrating to try to drive through it. Then we caught a plane back for Denver and boarded this one for Houston.
It was a fantastic trip, Yosemite is now one of my favorite places to hike in the United States. Jen and I will have to go there and spend a few days. Now it’s back to work for a few weeks until we leave for western Washington.